Octobers always remind me of my own roots, tangled in the St. Francis Mountains.
Madison County has always carried the weight of its mining past, and with it, a long memory of scandal. The St. Francis Mountains are full of stories, and the place where I once lived is no exceptions.
Just down the road lies a half-mile stretch of E highway that, to me, is the most beautifully haunting secret in Missouri. On one side, the drops sharply down to the St. Francis River where, in the summertime, you can spot river turtle stacked on sun-bleached logs. On the other, the road presses against the bluffs of Black Mountain. Tree roots claw from the rock as if searching for soil, and their crooked branches arch overhead in a natural tunnel. In fall, the turning leaves and teh 15-foot wet-weather waterfall make the drive feel enchanted. But once winter settles in, the highway is nearly forgotten, and the ice turns it into a quiet, dangerous passage.
If fall is the ending of a lifecycle, winter is the moment the land exhales its final breath. Everything goes still. Everything goes quiet.
And if this stretch of E Highway could speak, it would have no shortage of dark Missouri stories to tell. Floodwaters have climbed the 30-foot embankments and made the way impassible; cars have slipped over the edge and were caught by massive tree trunks; Civil War soldiers moved through the mountains between Fredericktown and Pilot Knob, using the bluffs as cover. It would talk about legends of ghosts, hidden gold, and murder in the isolated villages that once clung to these hills.
This corner of the Ozarks was known as “French Mills” and was once a small mountain community of nearly 200 people at the turn of the century. Today, if you drive that stretch of Highway E, the only trace that French Mills ever existed is a weathered wooden sign chained to a faded red cattle gate that reads, “French Mills Cemetery.”
That graveyard holds the remains of at least a dozen people, three of whom are rumored to have been murdered. One of those deaths turned into a legend of deception and hidden gold, a piece of Missouri folklore that's always pulled at me.
Simon Durand died on December 3, 1917, but his story had been winding through these hills long before that. A French settler, he built a fortune in Liberty Township alongside his business partner, Jacques "Jake" LaCondemine after the two arrived in 1879. Together, they ran a grist mill, flour mill, sawmill, general store, and distillery.
Simon was a sight people didn't easily forget. His grey hair was always matted and had a beard just as wild. He layered his clothing and generally appeared disheveled. He stood only five foot five, yet he was stout enough to hoist a 50-gallon whiskey barrel and drink straight from the bunghole without spilling a drop.
Considering whiskey barrels can weigh between 110 and 520 pounds, it's no wonder stories gathered around him. But the real legend of Simon Durand - the one that became part of Missouri Folklore - wasn't born from his strength. It came from the mystery that surrounded his final years and the questions that lingered after his death.
During the Civil War, Simon hired a live-in housekeeper named Sarah. Her husband had been taken from their farm to serve in the war and was never seen again. The men who seized him burned her home to the ground, leaving her with her young son and an iron washing pot. She stayed wtih Simon for many years, long enough that she became Simon’s common-law wife and to give birth to Simon’s son, Candide.
The details are unclear, but Sarah died sometime in the 1870s. Simon had been the only father that John had ever known, so John remained with him until he married a young woman named Mary King. Mary came from a prominent local family and so she and John quickly became respected members of the French Mill community. John followed in Simon's footsteps and built his own life through business, owning a farm and two stores.
Mary and John carried a running tab for Simon in their stores that eventually climbed past a thousand dollars. People said Mary urged John for months to confront Simon about the debt. When John finally did, the two men stopped speaking, and Simon told anyone who would listen about how John had wronged him.
Simon understood money but he was notoriously frugal. Instead of paying people for their work or supplies, he often promised a generous repayment upon his death. During this time, he’d hired another housekeeper named Birdie He once showed her a pair of rams horns packed with gold nuggets, each one a different size and shape. If she kept his secret, he told her, she would be rewarded when he died.
Birdie eventually married a man named Eli, and Simon, still craving care and company, asked the couple to move in. He promised they would never have to work again if they stayed on his property. They agreed, but it did not take long for them to realize that Simon rarely kept his word.
The promises he scattered through the community had begun to close in on him. Candide, Simon's only heir, had already been murdered. John was no longer in his life. Simon had told so mnay people they would be rewarded after his passing that half the community seemed to have a stake in whatever wealth he was hiding. People drifted toward him with questions about money, each one hoping to learn where he kept his gold. Some carried grudges, and at least one had taken him to court.
After a long day cutting logs for firewood, Eli came home to a farm that felt strangely silent. When he stepped inside the house, he found Simon tied to his bed and badly beaten. Simon whispered that “the people” had stolen the key to his money box. No surviving record ever identified who these people were. Simon believed they would keep returning to hurt him until he revealed where his gold was hidden.
There is no clear record of further beatings. What we do have are strange events that surrounded Simon during the final years of his life.
In 1899, a newspaper in Madison County reported that Simon had suddenly fallen ill. His right leg had swelled and turned an unusual color. Doctors suggested a tick bite. Neighbors began to believe the old man was being poisoned.
Another incident appeared in print in 1908. A local newspaper reported that a man known only as Orr had shot Simon in the arm. The article said the two men had argued about a cider mill. No one ever explained Orr’s motive. He appears in the historical record only long enough to fire the gun and then he vanishes.
Shortly before his death, Simon changed his will. He held bonds from every state in the union, along with bonds from Mexico, Canada, and Australia. The total value was around sixty thousand dollars at the time. That amount would be worth millions today.
The most haunting detail came from Birdie. In her old age, she often repeated something Simon had once told her.
“Birdie, when I die, they will never find half of my gold.”